Uluwatu is the Bali of cliffs, surf and sunsets. Sitting right down on the southern tip of the island on the Bukit Peninsula, it’s all limestone cliffs dropping into impossibly blue water, little hidden beaches and some of the best sunsets I’ve ever seen.
I spent a week here with one of my best friends, who just so happened to be the best local guide I could have asked for. Between the beach days, the long brunches and the late-night chats, it was the kind of girlie quality time you don’t get nearly enough of as an adult. Here’s everything we got up to – plus a monkey I’ll never forget.
Where I stayed: Bella Bali
I stayed at Bella Bali, a boutique hotel in Pecatu owned by my friend’s partner, so full disclosure – I’m a little biased. But honestly it was the perfect base. It’s small and relaxed with a lovely pool and garden, and it felt like a proper retreat after big days out. Being in Pecatu meant we were close to the beaches, the temple and the restaurants.
If you’re choosing where to stay in Uluwatu, my advice is to base yourself somewhere central on the peninsula, because things are spread out. Boutique hotels like this one are great value compared to the big clifftop resorts, and you still get that holiday feeling.
Getting around Uluwatu: hold on to the back
Nobody warned me about this one. On our first outing I pulled out my phone to order an Uber, and my friend turned to me and said, “You know we’re going on bikes, right?”
Turns out in Uluwatu, motorbikes are how you get everywhere. Fine, I thought, I can do that. So I asked her the obvious question – do I hold onto the driver the whole way there? She burst out laughing. “No, you hold onto the back!!”
So there I was, gripping the little rack behind the seat, winding along cliff roads with the ocean flashing past – and I loved it. Bike taxis through Gojek and Grab are ridiculously cheap, often just a few dollars a trip, and they’re so fast because they zip straight through the traffic on the narrow roads. You book them in the app just like an Uber, and your driver turns up with a spare helmet for you. Wear it every time.
Where to eat and drink in Uluwatu
Brunch with a beach view
Our brunch spot was hands down the most beautiful place I went all week. Picture sitting above a little cove with turquoise water, rocks dotted through the shallows and surfers bobbing out the back, coffee in hand, catching up on everything with your best friend. If you only plan one brunch in Uluwatu, make it somewhere with a view like this.
Tusk Steakhouse
If you’re craving a proper steak dinner on holiday, go to Tusk. We had amazing steak with potatoes and veggies, washed down with salty margaritas, and it was one of the best meals of the whole trip. Book it for a night when you want to treat yourself.
Motel Mexicola
Motel Mexicola was one of the most fun nights of the trip. We danced to 90s pop, the staff poured shots straight into our mouths and the whole place had a party energy from start to finish. Go with your favourite people, order the margaritas and be ready to sing along.
Uluwatu Temple and the Kecak fire dance
If you only do one cultural thing in Uluwatu, make it this. Uluwatu Temple sits right on the edge of a cliff high above the ocean, and every evening at sunset there’s a Kecak fire dance performed in an open-air amphitheatre with the sea behind it.
The performance tells the story of Rama and Sita from the Hindu epic the Ramayana – Sita is kidnapped, and Rama sets out to rescue her with the help of Hanuman, the white monkey god. The soundtrack comes from a circle of dozens of men chanting “cak cak cak” in rhythm the whole way through, and sitting there in the middle of it gives you goosebumps.
The actor playing Hanuman was the absolute star of the show. He was so funny – cheeky, playful and hamming it up for the crowd, and he had the whole amphitheatre laughing. Then there’s the fire scene near the end, and watching it all unfold as the sun goes down is one of those travel moments that stays with you.
Get there early to explore the temple grounds and grab a good seat, because it gets packed. You’ll need to cover your legs with a sarong to enter, but these are usually provided at the entrance.
A word about the monkeys
The temple is also home to heaps of real monkeys, and they are not shy. They’re cheeky, quick and very good at grabbing things off unsuspecting tourists – sunglasses, hats, phones, snacks, you name it. While we were there, one of them snatched someone’s AirPods and sat there casually chewing on them like it was an afternoon snack.
Take your sunglasses off and put them in your bag, keep your phone held tightly and don’t carry food in your hands. They’re fun to watch, just keep your distance and your belongings zipped away.
Kiva Beach Club: snorkelling and clear bottom kayaking
Kiva Beach Club was one of the highlights of the whole trip. Even getting there is part of the experience – there’s the most beautiful lift that takes you down the cliff to the water, and the views on the way down are something else.
The food was amazing and every table looks out over the water, but the best bit is the beach access. We spent ages snorkelling in the clear water, and you can also go clear bottom kayaking and watch everything underneath you as you paddle – wear your swimmers, because you will get wet. It’s the perfect mix of lazy beach club day and actually doing something.
Is Uluwatu worth it?
Honestly, yes. Between the clifftop views, the beaches, the food, that unforgettable fire dance and a week of quality time with my friend, Uluwatu ended up being my favourite part of Bali. I did get a classic case of Bali belly at one point and spent an evening downing activated charcoal, but even that couldn’t take the shine off. Pack some rehydration salts, stick to bottled water and keep your AirPods in your pocket.
Uluwatu FAQs
How far is Uluwatu from Bali airport?
Uluwatu is roughly 45 minutes to an hour from Ngurah Rai International Airport by car, depending on traffic. Most hotels can organise an airport transfer for you.
How do you get around Uluwatu?
Motorbikes are the main way to get around. Bike taxis booked through Gojek or Grab are cheap, quick and easy to use, and your driver will bring a helmet for you. If you’re an experienced rider you can also rent your own scooter.
What time is the Kecak fire dance at Uluwatu Temple?
The Kecak dance is held every evening around sunset. Times can shift a little through the year, so check the current schedule and aim to arrive at least an hour early to get a good seat.
Are the monkeys at Uluwatu Temple dangerous?
They’re mostly just cheeky, but they will grab anything loose. Keep your sunglasses, hats, phones and food out of reach, and don’t try to take anything back from a monkey yourself – ask a staff member for help instead.
Can you snorkel in Uluwatu?
Yes, and beach clubs with beach access like Kiva make it easy. Conditions change with the tide and swell, so check with staff before you get in.
What should I wear to Uluwatu Temple?
You’ll need to cover your legs, and a sarong and sash are usually provided at the entrance. Comfortable shoes are a good idea as there are plenty of stairs and cliff paths.